Preparation and tailoring materials
Sewing services on the latest Brother’s machines
The processing plant of jeans company Conto Bene has a large number of the latest machinery from Italy and Turkey. Well developed team in a laboratory for material testing, combined with quality chemicals and machines guarantee high quality processing of jeans.
A complete range of processing jeans includes:
This is very first & basic step but most important step of washing. Here the fate of denim garment is decided that its going to appear good or bad. Good Pre treatments avoid streaking, stiffness & color loss. This process removes impurities, starch & stains during handling of fabric.
This step is also called desizing ( Removal of Size applied during denim fabric making in weft yarn ). All the woven fabric contains size on them due to reasons to strengthen the yarn for weaving. There are many types of sizes available in the market but they can be divided in two major groups.
- Water Soluble (CMC or PVA based sizes ) and
- Dissolvable sizes in water ( Starch based ). Starch based sizes are most commonly used due to cheap prices & readily availability.
Methods of Removing Sizes from Denim Jeans……
- Washing with High Alkaline agents ( i.e. Soda ash )
- Washing with High Acidic agents (i.e. Acetic acid )
- Washing with Oxidative chemicals ( i.e. Hydrogen Peroxide )
- Enzymatic desizing with Alfa amylase.
ENZYME and STONE WASH
There are four kinds of Enzymes available in market for Denim Laundry business:
- Amylase … Desizing
- Cellulase … For Salt & pepper effect , contrast
- Laccase … Bio bleaching
- Catalase … Peroxide killer
Enzyme is kind of protein that is obtained from fermentations method from naturally existing bacteria & fungi. The structure of Enzyme is a biological polymer and it can be found in every cell. Generally called as Cellulase & it works on cotton( Cellulosic fiber ) only. Enzyme are living organisms which will attack a specific molecular group.
There are mainly three kind of Cellulase being used for Denim washing, Neutral, Acid and Bio polishing Enzyme. Enzyme are very sensitive with parameters in washing cycle i.e, pH , Temperature & time. If any of these parameters are not up to the mark, result will not be accurate.
The reaction of enzyme can be easily controlled, its biodegradable products, so they eco friendly.
Bio Polishing Cellulase are being used to have protruded fiber removal from denim & oven fabric. This is also widely known as Anti pilling enzyme.
Any Cellulase used in process must be cleaned/killed after the process completion by simply disturbing the parameters ie. By raising high temp. or raising pH to alkaline where no Cellulase withstand.
Cellulase are available in 3 categories:
- Acidic &
- Hybrid enzymes.
Neutral enzyme gives better salt & pepper effect with very less back staining & its generally come sin powder form & also retains better strength of fabric than acidic Cellulase. Where as acidic cellulase give faster results but with too heavy back staining & cuts down the indigo color, also affects the strength of fabrics.
Now a days laundry people needs faster results in less time & money hence chemical suppliers combined Neutral & acid cellulase in such way that it works faster & with better results than acid cellulase with cost effectiveness & known as Hybrid enzyme.
Laccase is bio bleaching agent & alternative for conventional bleaching agents. This impart greyer cast to blue denim & enhances salt & pepper effect. But due to high cost & low self life, laundries do not prefer it.
This in one an important step in washing denim & can be done by various bleaching agents:
- Calcium hypo chlorite
- Sodium hypo chlorite
- Hydrogen peroxide
- Potassium permanganate
First two chemicals are commonly being used for every medium to vintage denim but when it comes to super vintage & light shade its advisable to use potassium permanganate bleach to cut the color faster till half way & then neutralize it & go with Liquid ( Hypo ) bleach to adjust the desired shade. This process helps to get Greyer cast & also protects the lycra/spandex, retain elasticity.
Hydrogen Peroxide is rarely used as bleaching agent when very less color loss required or if fabric is sulphur top. As it takes longer time to give desired effect.
Potassium Permanganate is also being used on 100% sulphur black denim fabric for bleaching/reducing agent to get unique effects. As its not production friendly till laundry have very expertise team to handle this program, otherwise it will result in many shades & cast.
Proper Neutralizations of bleaching process is very essential in order to get rid of fabric strength, bad smell from garment, yellowing & skin irritation etc…
Tinting is a process where very less amount of tint is involved & mainly direct dye is being used to do this process. This is being done to change hue/cast/tone of indigo. As soon as quantity of tint color increases & it cover up indigo, reaches the level of dyeing.
Tinting being used to give garments a used / vintage & muddy look. This process takes from 5 minutes to 15 minutes time for better results followed by dye fixing & clean up of superficial dye.
Dyeing is being done on very light shade of Indigo, Ecru/ grey denim & Ready for dyeing denim.
There are various Types Of Dye. The comparison of these dyes is given in the chart here below:
- Direct Dyes
- Reactive Dyes
- Pigment Dyes
- Sulphur Dyes
|Direct Dyes||Reactive Dyes||Pigment Dyes||Sulphur Dyes|
|Wide range of shades||Wide range of shades||Styling (limited to dull shades)||Shades are dull|
|Short Cycles||Long Cycle||Short to long Cycle||Short to long Cycle, depends upon shade|
|Ease of application||Water Consumption High||Machine contamination, but hard to obtain consistency, harsh hand feel||Sulphur Odour & harsh hand feel|
|Smooth Appearance||Smooth Appearance||Smooth Appearance||Smooth Appearance|